component E-H / synovex H?

07Lane40

New member
newbie here so bear with me... i have a few questions for you guys. i know synovex is on back order, but thats just as well - component E-H seems to be the same thing and cheaper - about a dose a dollar...

1) i can find kits all over the place for tren conversions... where are all the test conversion kits?

2) when you convert component/syno how can you tell whether the ester was cleaved or not?

3) in order to keep the prop ester, can you leave the estradiol and simply use aromatase inhibitors to manage the estrogen, or is that too simplistic of a view?


being able to get my hands on 40mL of test prop for 50 bucks or so seems too good...


thanks guys.
 
i guess I've got my first question answered... so in reading up on this, apparently the NaOH de-esters the estrogen to make it water soluble? and in doing so it also de-esters the test, but at a different rate?

is that correct?

so how would i be able to tell whether i created TNE or Test prop?
 
Correct the estrogen becomes soluble with the water and leaves the prop to crystallize. You have to filter it continuously to rid all estrogen and once left with the remaining prop crystals rinse with gallon to gallon and a half of distilled water that should rinse the rest of the estrogen and HEET away leaving pure test prop powder. The link i sent you has the step by step directions that are pretty easy, imo.

Synovex-H Uses test prop.. so the ester is already attached to the hormone. and the water will not break the bonds. leaving just test prop powder and the estrodial water solution. Its been awhile since ive taken chemistry, but im guessing the bonds they used to mix the estrodial and test are broken easily with water. As opposed to the bonds holding the test hormone and ester together. NOT ENTIRELY sure on that, more of a speculation. hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.
 
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Correct the estrogen becomes soluble with the water and leaves the prop to crystallize. You have to filter it continuously to rid all estrogen and once left with the remaining prop crystals rinse with gallon to gallon and a half of distilled water that should rinse the rest of the estrogen and HEET away leaving pure test prop powder. The link i sent you has the step by step directions that are pretty easy, imo.

okay cool... so i just have to keep a close eye on how long I let it sit with the NaOH?
 
after you use the HEET to dissolve pellets,you can use sodium tert butoxide which will bind the estro but leave crystalized estro. and leave test prop, let it sit for an hour. or Some SAY sodium hydroxide for exactly and hour with methanol will work breaking estro out 99.5% FREE, other say it will strip the prop if it sits too long. 24 hours will give you test base.

Then when your ready to separate the test prop from the estrodial benzoate, you can either add 500ml of water to it for another fifteen minutes. This leaves powdered clumpy product, has to be finally filtered.

Or check that site and he shows you how to rig this dripping system that will drip, for 45-60 minutes steadily, 500ml into it leaving the estrodial solution and then the test prop will begin to crystallize, and once complete you can filter, actually separating the two from one another leaving the test prop crystals. Also putting it in the fridge will help the yeild and crystal size.
 
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are u using the NaOH to dissolve the pellets? if thats what your using, then leave it in for an hour, but stir it every 10-15 making sure its dissolving all the pellets.

Then when your ready to separate the test prop from the estrodial benzoate, you can either add 500ml of water to it for another fifteen minutes. This leaves powdered clumpy product, has to be finally filtered.

Or check that site and he shows you how to rig this dripping system that will drip, for 45-60 minutes steadily, 500ml into it leaving the estrodial solution and then the test prop will begin to crystallize, and once complete you can filter, actually separating the two from one another leaving the test prop crystals. Also putting it in the fridge will help the yeild and crystal size.

ok, sounds good. thanks.
 
Just finished making mine for the first time tonight but I think I am going to run it through a whatman filter one more time. Just a suggestion buy a few extra whatman filters. Even with it warmed it gets to the point where it's just way to clogged to push through. I had 2 filters and ended up taking me an hour to push the last 10cc through and some pretty sore fingers.

I also can still visibly see very small crystals in my oil which is why I was going to filter it again. I'm assuming that it should be completely clear correct? Everything else prior to this seemed to go flawlessly and from the sounds of it I followed the same site as the one that was pm'ed to you.

My yield for the dry powder came out to a little more then 9 grams by the way but I did spill a few clumps of crystals during the filtering process. :(
 
Component e-h. I'm going to try heating it and filtering it one more time to see if i can get it to hold and get rid of the crystals that formed. (there aren't to many just some settled into the bottom of the bottle. I'm thinking I should have let the powder sit a bit longer and it may have been a bit wet yet. If I were to do it again I think I would leave it in dry form overnight after cooking it. Then again I am a complete newbie at this so I am trying to learn as I go.
 
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Just a quick update on my brew. I heated my "crashed" test up to 95 degrees for 45 minutes stirring it every 15 minutes. The crystals melted and it held in the oil this time so I should be good to go as long as it doesn't fall out again.
 
Just a quick update on my brew. I heated my "crashed" test up to 95 degrees for 45 minutes stirring it every 15 minutes. The crystals melted and it held in the oil this time so I should be good to go as long as it doesn't fall out again.

nice... how much did you brew at once?
 
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